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How To

How To

Instructions for your large candle making kit

Your kit contains:
1 x Aluminium Pouring pot
10 x Medium Monaco jars
10 x 142gm honey pot Jars
10 x maxi tea light cups
10 x Acs 5.5 tea light wicks
20 x Cdn 3 tealight wicks
20 x Clear polycarbonate tealight cups
10 x ACS 6.7 wicks
10 x CDN 8 wicks
4 x 100ml Fragrances (your choice)
10 x Assorted dye blocks (your choice)
1 x Golden Brands GW 464 container soy 5kg
20 x Small warning labels
20 x Aussie Stickums
1 x glass thermometer
5 x wick bar holders

The following instructions can be applied to any jar or tea light you want to use. To start using your candle kit decide what you want to make first and place the jar or tea light on a clean surface protected from spillages.

To begin the instructions we will start with a medium monaco.

Take one of your ACS 6.7 wicks and place an aussie stickum to the bottom of the wick tab by peeling off one side of the paper and placing the sticky end on to the tab. Peel off the other side of the paper. Holding your wick at the half way point place the wick in the centre of your jar and press the tab down firmly to attach the wick to the centre of the glass.

Take a wick bar holder and feed the wick up through the centre of the hole. Rest the wick bar holder on the edges of the jar and pull the wick gently but firmly into the ‘notch’ on the wick bar holder. This will stop the wick from moving and will keep it centered. You may need to adjust the wick holder from side to side slightly to make sure the wick is centered.

On the stove fill a wide mouth pot half way with water and set to boil. This will form the double boiler that you will use to melt the wax. Place your aluminium pouring pot on some kitchen scales and measure out 165 gms of soy wax. (This is the amount we suggest on our website under the medium monaco glass jar).

Place your aluminium pot inside the pot on the stove and your wax will start to melt. You may need to adjust the heat to keep the water at a simmer.

As the wax is melting place the thermometer inside the pouring pot using the clip to keep it fastened to the top of the pot.

As the wax is melting take one of your dye blocks and using some scissors or a knife, scrape some shavings into the wax. You may need a fair amount to start to colour the wax but remember the more you shave in, the darker your candle will become. Stir the wax and shavings carefully dissolving the dye block shavings. To check the colour, drop
some melted wax on a white surface and wait for it to dry. If you want a darker colour add more shavings.

Continue heating the wax up to 80 degrees celsius. Once reached, turn the heat off and measure out your fragrance. For instructional purposes we will measure out 8% which equates to 13 mls. This is 8% of 165gms of wax.

Pour your fragrance into your melted wax and stir carefully making sure everything is combined.

Let your wax now cool down to about 65-70 degrees.

Once cooled sufficiently gently pour the wax into your prepared jar. Leave until the candle has cooled down and become solid. Remove the wick bar holder. Let the candle cure for at least 24 hours before burning. If you intend to sell your candles or give them away stick a warning label under the jar.

The instructions are the same for all items in your kit. The only difference being the size of wick you use and the amount of wax and fragrance you need to measure out. If you are making more than one candle with the same fragrance then add all of the ingredient amounts together. Keep a calculator handy and a pen and paper.

To make all of the items in your kit we have listed which items go together below.

Monaco medium jar
ACS 6.7 wick
165 gms wax
13mls fragrance (8%) see the help and learning section on the website under fragrance load to work out the percentage if you want to increase the load.

142gm Honey Pot
CDN 8 Wick
125 gms wax
10 mls fragrance (8%)

Maxi tea light cup
ACS 5.5 tea light wick
50 gms wax
4 mls fragrance (8%)

Polycarbonate Tea Light
CDN 3 tea light wick
30 gms wax
2.5 mls fragrance (8%)

How To

How to make a paraffin pillar candle

It’s hard to walk past any gift store these days without seeing the word “soy” on the label of most candles. Which is great, we love soy candles, they are our most popular product by far!

But there is a LOT to be said for good ol’ paraffin candles too.

Want to know the real benefits of paraffin wax? Here’s a quick list I’ve put together for you:

  • You can make pretty much any type of candle with paraffin wax
  • Get creative and fill jars, glasses, teacups and tealights, or let them stand alone in their simple beauty in the form of pillars, votives, candlesticks and other moulds
  • It makes for highly fragranced candles with great throw
  • Unlike natural wax, paraffin wax does not frost. This means you can create a consistent appearance, which is great if you want to sell your candles

And another little fun fact? Melted paraffin wax has been used for many decades by doctors, physical therapists and beauty therapists alike for its abilities to provide pain relief and soften skin.

But for now, back to candles. Here is your go-to guide for creating your very own paraffin pillar candle.

What you’ll need:

  • 1 pillar mould
  • Paraffin wax (for a 76x88mm round mould you will need approximately 350g. For a 76x165mm mould you will need approximately 690g. You will also require slightly more wax than when pouring soy, as paraffin needs to be double poured. See our Moulds page for more info on wax measurements
  • 1 double boiler
  • 21mls of your choice of fragrance/essential oil (if making a 76x88mm mould) or 42mls of your choice of fragrance/essential oil (if making a 76x165mm mould)
  • 1 dye block or liquid dye of your choice of colouring
  • 1 stainless steel stirring spoon
  • 1 glass thermometer
  • Cooking oil
  • 1 mould wick pin
  • 1 small piece of Blu-tack


  1. On a scale, measure out your wax depending on the size of mould that you are using (see measurement notes above).
  2. Fill the bottom part of your double boiler with water until it sits about halfway up your pouring jug.
  3. Place your wax in the upper pan of the double boiler on the stove. Because paraffin has a high melt point, this is the easiest and quickest method to melt the wax.
  4. Insert your thermometer in to the upper pan. You’ll find that the wax will start melting at around 62°C. candle-making-temperature-small
  5. While the wax is melting, prepare your mould (but keep an eye on the temperature as at 95° you’ll need to add your fragrance and colour). Lightly spray or wipe the inside of your mould with cooking oil. (You can skip this step if you find your candles are easy to remove and not sticking to the mould)
  6. Insert the mould pin up through the hole in the bottom of the mould. Once your candle dries, the bottom of the mould will become the top of the candle. INSERT PHOTO
  7. Because mould wick pins are self-centering, simply wrap a small piece of Blu-tack around the base of the wick pin and push it firmly up into the base of the mould. This will stop any wax from leaking out of the hole in the mould. candle-making-candle-holder-small
  8. Has your wax reached about 95° yet? If so, add your fragrance and colour. With paraffin you can achieve bright, bold and deep colours without adversely affecting the burn (as opposed to soy wax). candle-making-dye-block-small
  9. Allow the wax to cool to between 85-90°, then fill to the top of the mould and keep your remaining wax for the second pour. As your candle cools, you’ll notice it start to sink deeply in the middle. Don’t be alarmed! This is a classic characteristic of paraffin.
  10. Once the candle has completely cooled, reheat your leftover wax, making sure it is 10% hotter than the temperature of your first pour, between 95-100°. This will help minimise any join lines.
  11. Pour your melted wax into the sinkhole of your candle, filling it just to the edge. Try not to over pour, as you don’t want the wax running down the inside of the mould. You can always smooth off the bottom of your candle later on a heat plate. candle-making-pouring-small
  12. Make yourself a cuppa, relax, and wait for your candle to cool (usually about 6 hours). Then, turn the mould over and press firmly down on the spike of the mould pin. Don’t be shy in using quite a bit of pressure to pull the pin out. It should slide straight out, but if you find it difficult to remove put the mould in the freezer for a few minutes to further shrink and release the wax.candle-making-pin-small

Finally, ENJOY! Pillar candles make great centrepieces for table settings. Alternatively, why not tie a piece of twine around it, add a small homemade note and gift it to someone special.

Fragrance & Essential Oils How To

How to work out fragrance load when making candles

Although it seems a little confusing at first it is quite easy to do.

Determine what percentage of fragance you want to start with, between 6-10% of fragrance oil is best.  If using essential oils use a maximum of 6-7%.  Put this figure in the first blank box.

Next measure out how much wax you are going to use for your candles.  (It doesn’t matter if you have a little left over, they make perfect tealights.  Always better to be slightly over than slightly under). Put this figure into the second box of the calculator.

Press calculate and viola!  That is the amount of fragrance you need to use (doesn’t matter if you choose mls or weight for the fragance as long as you stick to one method).

An Example Calculation

8%  of   395 gms of wax   =    31.6 mls of fragrance for 395gms wax

Every fragrance and essential oil will affect your soy wax differently.  You may find one particular scent causes your wax to dry lumpy or ‘curdle’  If this happens drop the scent percentage back and try another candle.  Keep doing this until you strike a balance.  Don’t forget to also experiment with the pour temperature.  Try hotter.

 Percentage Calculator

 what is % of ?


How To

How to make a tart/clam shell melt

A perfect place for newbies to begin their venture in to the world of candle making, clamshell melts (or tart melts) are one of the easiest candles to make.

However, from the outset I should clarify that these are technically not candles. Rather, they are the wickless variety that you can simply pop in to the top of an oil burner.

Moulds for these beauties come in a range of shapes and sizes, while fragrance and colour make these the must-have items for those who like to indulge.

And, if you happen to have an electric burner, there are no flames to worry about (perfect if you have a habit of leaving the house and worrying about whether you blew the candle out or not!).

Compact and easy to travel with, you can choose from square clamshell, round clamshell and tart-shaped moulds. Square and round clamshells can be packaged up as is. Simply attach a label to the flat surface of the clamshell and they are a great product ready to sell or gift.

On our website you will find a box that will fit four of the tart melts.

Here at Aussie Candle Supplies we are passionate about staying ahead of the trends when it comes to fragrances for your candles, which is why we travel extensively, particularly to the US, to source the best for our product line. Feel free to browse the range of fragrances here.


*To fill 1x 6-piece square clamshell. Wax measurements for other moulds can be found here.

  • 55-70g Golden Wax (GW) 415, 416, 444 or 464
  • Dye block or liquid dye
  • 8.5ml of fragrance (this is 15% @ 55fms of wax)
  • 6-piece square clamshell mould
  • Measuring scale
  • 1 large pot
  • 1 aluminium pouring jug
  • 1 glass thermometer
  • Scissors or small sharp knife
  • 1 stainless steel stirring spoon


  1. On a scale, measure out your wax in the pouring jug. Remember to zero the scales before adding the wax to the jug. Also note that if you are not using the 6-piece clamshell, you’ll need to refer to the website for the accurate measurement.
  2. Fill 1/3 of your pot with boiling water from your kettle. Place the aluminium jug of wax inside the pot along with your thermometer. Alternatively, you can melt your wax in the microwave using the plastic pouring jug. Either way, be sure to keep a close eye on it so that it doesn’t get too hot.
  3. Once the wax reaches 70-75°C, add in your dye. If using dye blocks, simply shave in the amount of colour you want using a pair of scissors or your small knife. With your spoon stir carefully and keep the heat up until fully dissolved, otherwise it won’t melt completely and you’ll end up with bright splotches of colour in your melts – not ideal! If using liquid dyes, dip the end of a skewer in to the dye, then swirl in to your wax. candle-making-dye-block-small
  4. Add in your choice of fragrance. Another reason why we love these melts is because you don’t have to worry about clogging a wick or the risk of mushrooming because of too much fragrance when burning. It may take a bit of experimentation however, as some fragrances and essential oils will affect how the wax dries.
  5. Keep an eye on the temperature, and when it drops to about 50° you’ll be ready to pour. It’s important that you note the temperature of your surrounds (if it is particularly cool or warm outside, or if you have the air conditioner or heater on). These factors will play a part in how your melt will cure, and whether or not you’ll get frosting or holes.
  6. Pour the melted wax over the individual squares. Be sure to fill them to the top rim, as this helps to break them apart when it comes time to use them in the oil burner. If using the tart mould, fill them as much as possible until you can see a convex shape forming on top. candle-making-tart-pour-small
  7. Allow the melts to cool. When dry, simply flip the lid over to keep them free of dust and any damage and add your label to the lid. No muss, no fuss! candle-making-tart-melts-small
How To

How to make, melt and pour soap

There’s something truly indulgent about making a product in the home, for the home. I think it’s knowing how much care you put in to creating it that makes it all the more special to use.

Soap making is one of my favourites because it offers an alternative to what we often find in the supermarket. Not to mention you get to have fun while playing around with different scents, which can be hard to come by in the commercial market.

For the absolute beginners, you’re in luck. This guide to making, melting and pouring soap is extremely easy and won’t take up a lot of your time.

Later down the track, you can get really creative and add elements such as ground lavender buds, eucalyptus leaves, flower petals, coffee or oatmeal.

Why not package a couple of different soaps up – a luxurious creamy bar and a fresh exfoliant – for birthday gifts for family and friends.

WHAT YOU’LL NEEDgoats-milk-soap

*To make 10 soap clamshells

  • 900g melt and pour soap base
  • Soap-safe fragrances or essential oils (choose only from the soap-safe table of fragrances)
  • 10gm PC dye (see here)
  • Rubbing alcohol spray (not compulsory, only used to disburse small air bubbles
  • 10 soap clamshell mould
  • 1 double boiler or 1L microwave-safe plastic jug (see different instructions below)
  • 1 stainless steel stirring spoon


  1. If using a double boiler: Add the melt and pour soap base in to your double boiler and heat until it starts to melt. Keep an eye on it and stir at intervals. While there is no set heat temperature, it should not be steaming and should remain slightly viscous. INSERT PHOTO
    If using a microwave: Cut the melt and pour soap base in to small chunks, place in your microwave-safe plastic jug and cover with cling wrap to prevent moisture from evaporating. Microwave on high for one minute, then stir until the soap is no longer melting. Microwave again in 30-second increments, continuing to stir in each break until all soap pieces have disappeared. INSERT PHOTO
  2. Add your body safe fragrance or essential oil and continue stirring until fully blended and the soap is no longer cloudy. Feel free to use more or less than the recommended amount (as long as it is within the percentage advised), depending on your results. INSERT PHOTO
  3. Add your PC (personal care) dye. The depth of colour you want to achieve is a personal choice, so add in and stir until you are satisfied. Botanicals can also be used to achieve natural colouring. INSERT PHOTO
  4. Stir all ingredients thoroughly until well blended, then pour in to the mould. INSERT PHOTO
  5. (This step is optional and for aesthetic reasons only) Spray the tops of your soap with rubbing alcohol to disperse any bubbles that may form. Leave soap to dry for 2-3 hours.
  6. Once dry, turn the mould over and gently apply pressure to different areas of the back of the mould until soap is released. INSERT PHOTO
  7. Storage: To avoid sweating, discolouring and loss of moisturising properties, store your soap appropriately. For short-term storage, wrap in cling film. For long-term storage, using shrink-wrap on your soap is advised.



How To

How to make lip balm

Living in Australia comes with the blessing of great weather year-round, which means more time spent in the backyard and at the beach.

Sounds like heaven, right? It really is, however the additional exposure to the sun and UV rays means we should be extra vigilant about looking after our skin and lips. Dry, chapped lips are not uncommon in this part of the world if you don’t take care of them.

There are so many lip balm products on the market that it can almost be overwhelming. So here at Aussie Candle Supplies we decided to make our own.

The results were so fantastic that we decided to share it with you! We’ve even gone one better and included a section of our website to supply all the bits and bobs you’ll need to get going.

The beauty of making your own lip balm is in the fact you can tailor the flavouring and colouring to your personal preference, and they make really great gifts for friends and family.


*NOTE: The type of lip balm base you use will be determined by whether you are making lip balm in a pot or in a tube. You can find both types here. Each lip balm pot holds 8g while a tube holds 5g.

  • 80g lip balm base for pots or 50g lip balm base for tubes (see note above about different bases)
  • 2.4-4ml of flavouring (optional) for pots, 1.5-2.5ml for tubes
  • Colouring (optional, and must be FD&C and oil based or lip safe mica)
  • Sweetener (optional)
  • 10 lip balm pots
  • 1 Pyrex jug or other microwave-safe container
  • Spouted plastic jug or disposable pipette (optional for pouring, see Step 6)
  • 1 stainless steel stirring spoon


  1. Place your lip balm base in the Pyrex jug or microwavable container.
  2. Heat in the microwave just until the base begins to melt, remove and stir before heating again. As it doesn’t take a lot of heating to melt the base, with your spoon give it a quick stir occasionally throughout this process.
  3. Once your base is completely melted, it’s time to add your flavouring and colour. However, if you prefer a totally natural and pure lip balm, feel free to skip this step. While you may need to experiment on quantity based on your brand of flavouring, it is generally used at a rate of 3-5% of the total base weight. **Never use candle fragrances, even if they are body safe. Body safe is a term used for skin safe fragrances and NOT for ingesting.
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  4. As most flavours are unsweetened, you can add sweetener to your base now.
  5. Just like flavouring, colour is a personal choice and it can be difficult to measure particularly for small batches. Using a dropper can be really useful for this purpose. Work slowly and add in small doses at a time until you reach your desired shade. If using mica add very small amounts of the powder at a time until you reach your desired shade.
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  6. With your spoon, stir the base thoroughly before pouring in to your pots or tubes. Depending on your confidence level, you can choose to pour straight out of the Pyrex jug, from a spouted plastic jug, or fill with a disposable pipette. When pouring in to pots, ensure there is enough space between each one just in case you spill. When pouring in to tubes, use a tube tray that holds them steady. Pour low and keep in mind that the hotter you pour, the more chance there is of cracks and holes appearing. The good news is that these can easily be filled by a double pour.
    File_005 File_008 File_007 File_006
How To Recipes

How to make aroma bead diffusers

Materials Needed

Aroma Beads (around 455gms)
Candle Dye
Candle fragrance or essential oil (20-30%)
Zip lock bag
Aroma Jar


Start off with 20% fragrance (based on the weight of your beads), and place in the zip lock bag with your beads. (LESS IS BEST when starting out.) You can always add more oil but you can’t take it away. If you use too much oil it will not soak into the beads and you will have to add additional beads.

You can always add more fragrance. You can add up to 30% of oil to your beads. Just be careful not to add too much.

You can add additional oil if you feel the need, however adding more oil is not necessarily going to make the beads smell longer, it will just take longer to absorb. Some fragrance oils absorb faster than others.
If using Essential oils, BE careful. They absorb twice as fast as fragrance oils.

Vanilla based or leather based fragrances WILL take longer to dry.

If you want to use dye add 1 drop of colour into the fragrance oil, swish the colour until mixed. You may add more colour as needed. You may also add additional colour after the beads are dry. This will give the beads a variegated look. Mix the colour well within the oil.

You CANNOT use food colouring or skin safe dye. It will bead up in the oil and come off on your hands or whatever it touches.

Slowly add the fragrance to the ziplock bag. Shake the beads or massage the bag when all has been added to disperse the colour and oil throughout. The beads should be wet throughout.

Vigorously shake or massage the beads in the bag for a minute or two to be sure they are all mixed. Depending on the weight of the fragrance oil, your beads could take from a few hours to a day or two before the beads are complete. If it is not soaking up as fast as you would like, you can add additional beads.

* NOTE: Every time you walk by your beads, pick up the bag and shake them. Essential oils do work differently. DO NOT leave them to stand for very long, as they normally cure very quickly.
Citrus oils will also usually cure quicker. Orange, Lemon and any citrus fragrances can clump. Just break apart with you hands. Citrus cure quickly.

When the beads are done, they should be dry to the touch and the bag should shake clean of beads on the sides. There may be a bit of residue at the bottom, but that is okay. Throw in a few unscented beads and shake. Some heavier oils may take 2-3 days to cure.

Transfer the beads from the bag into your aroma jar.

* NOTE: Cure your beads at least 3-4 days before packaging. The less the time you let them sit, the less time they will keep their smell! Different fragrances will last for different lengths of times just like candles and some will be stronger than other Continue Reading