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How To Recipes

How To Make Chocolate Bath Bombs

Bath bombs are so easy to make and the variations are endless. In time for Easter we have made some delectable chocolate bath bombs with sweet almond oil. They smell amazing and contain beneficial salts for a relaxing and wonderful smelling bath time.


  • Bath bomb tongs
  • 1 cup citric acid
  • 1 cup sodium bicarbonate
  • 1/2 cup corn starch
  • 1/2 cup sweet almond oil
  • 2 tsps cocoa powder
  • 8-10 drops of chocolate fragrance oil


  1. Add all of your dry ingredients into a mixing bowl (citric acid, sodium bicarb, corn starch, cocoa powder) and give it a good thorough mix.
  2. Measure out ½ cup of sweet almond oil and add this to your dry ingredients a little at a time, stirring thoroughly. Do not add to much oil to fast or you will activate your citric acid.
  3. Stir your ingredients together until it’s all combined. Keep stirring and mixing until your dry ingredients have mixed completely with the wet ingredients. Your mixture should resemble wet sand when mixed.
  4. Scoop your mixture into one side of the bath bomb tongs and pack it down tightly. Turn the tongs over and do the same to the other side. Make sure you overpack this side. Squeeze both sides of the tongs together as tightly as you can. I didn’t worry too much if they didn’t close together fully.
  5. After a few seconds release the tongs and your mixture should have formed a perfect ball.
  6. Turn the tongs over gently in your hand and very lightly just put your finger over the hole in the tong and give a little push. This is enough to loosen the ball and it will tip out in your hand. Put aside gently and let dry. I let mine dry for at  least 3 days to fully harden.
How To Trouble Shooting

What makes a candle throw?

This is always an interesting question and there are many “theories” floating around the industry on this topic.

At first glance, everyone looks at the wick for the answer, because that is the most apparent source for the heating and the melting of the wax; to me it starts way before that.

A candle is a system and, like most systems, is made of many parts. In this case wax, wick, dye, fragrance, container and/or shape.

To me, hot throw is primarily the function of the wax and fragrance combination. I have always developed and used wax that have a wide range of carbon distribution and a moderate melt point, ranging from 130 – 140F.

It is important that the carbon distribution of a wax does not have many “holes” in it. By this I mean that it has a complete range for example of C15 – C30 including 15, 16, 17…..29, 30.

My house blend was composed of 130 MP FRP, 140 MP FRP, 180 MP Microcrystalline and Petrolatum. This wide range insured that there were no gaps, and if there was, the petrolatum would fill them in.

When soy came into play that changed the way most people looked at wax. Soy waxes tend to have a real wide distribution, with a few “holes” in it. This is why you see the fat bloom or cauliflower look in some candles. This can be controlled by adding different levels of hydrogenated material (hydrogenation controls the amount of “oil” left in the wax). When you mix partial and fully hydrogenated soy wax it closes some of the holes.

I alway used beeswax for the same reason I used petrolatum; because of its wide distribution. Bottom line, if you have an evenly distributed wax base you are heading in the right direction to create a good hot throw.
I may be one of the only people left out there who even think this deeply about this but I feel that prices and competition have led to companies losing sight of making the right product instead of the right price.
Then, of course, you need to have a properly developed fragrance. I am not as well versed in the chemistry of the building fragrance but having worked with most of the major fragrance houses in the past, here is my opinion.

This industry, too, has been tainted by the need for price over the need for the right fragrance. When I did development work for Avon and SC Johnson, there was no focus on price, just quality. So I saw first hand the difference between a $25.00 and an $8.00 fragrance. A proper fragrance has top, middle and bottom notes built in. All of these together give the sensory smell of what the
label says it is. It is important that these are balanced, if the lighter notes are all made of strawberry then after the candle is burned for 4-6 hours, that layer of wax looses its essence of Strawberry. It is important that all the layers support the top notes.

One of my “favorite” discoveries is that some fragrances have a fecal note..that’s right poop! This added a bottom note that supported the top notes and if balanced wrong just smelled like s@%t, lol.
My favorite part, of course, is the wick or, more importantly, how the candle burns. The poor wick always gets the blame; when in fact this is the most stable and purest part of the system. Most wicks are 100% nice clean cotton or other single part material e.g. paper, rayon, etc. A wick can only perform with the fuel that it is being fed. If you put dirty gas in your lawnmower then it will
perform poorly.

Ironically I have the least to say about the wick because, in essence, it is a simple machine that, when uninhibited by poorly developed waxes, color, fragrance and containers will ALWAYS perform to its fullest potential.
In conclusion, I have found that all of my success in formulating the proper candle consisted of the following criteria:

  1. Proper wax blend (as described above)
  2. Properly formulated fragrance…not just cheap
  3. A wick chosen that, when burned in just the wax base alone is not greatly reduced when dye, fragrance and container are introduced. These sometimes increase the performance; which I consider more of a positive, unless it becomes too hot or uncontrollable.
  4. Proper container shape and size. I feel that the container should contribute positively the melting of the wax pool. The wick alone may not be able to get a full melt pool so the container should also contribute. An improperly shaped container can be as big an influence as an improperly formulated wax or fragrance.
  5. A dye system that does not diminish the wicks potential. So many people “wick up” to beat this. The fact that there is a material in a dye that is non-combustible will not change, it will only burn, turn to black carbon and clog the wick.
  6. Slow and steady wins the race. The best candles I have seen and have made did NOT burn to the edges in the first, second or even fourth hour. Think about it this way. A candle fragrance is delicate and formulated to be released when the wax heated. When a candle burns hot and fast it is burning off the best parts of the fragrance and if it has a 1/2″ or more deep melt pool then you are creating even more modified wax. The idea of leaving “fresh” wax on the sides of the container when burning is two-fold. One, the wax pool is not overheated to the point where the fragrance is burned off and broken down and two, the fresh wax continues to replenish the melt pool with “full strength” fragrance as it melts down from the sides.

So there it is, my thesis on what makes a great candle. Feel free to leave a comment.

How To

How to make a soy candle

How Easy is Soy Candle Making? Well!!! That depends on your desired outcome. If you wish to make candles for yourself to burn at home then candle making is dead easy and great fun.

If however you wish to set up a business and sell your candles then it becomes more difficult. Before you even entertain the thought of setting up a business ask yourself are you prepared for all the hard work ahead! Yes! It is hard work and if you’re out to make a quick buck with something as ‘easy’ as soy candles then forget it.

Soy candle making isn’t ‘melt and pour’. It requires months of testing and burning and retesting and experimenting. It can be frustrating at times when you can’t seem to solve a problem but with the right attitude and some hard work you will get there. Once you are there it can be such a rewarding, satisfying and profitable ‘hobby’ or business.

Making a soy candle is quite technical and to get it right even more so. We supply free detailed information on the website to help you achieve the best possible result from your products but the rest is up to you. If you are not prepared to work hard and experiment and follow the correct procedures your outcome will reflect this. The market is very competitive and soy candles abound in the market compared to 6 years ago when there was only mine.

Before starting on your project research carefully all the information that is available to you and then make your choices. It can be a rewarding hobby and business but ‘rome wasn’t built in a day’ and neither will your experience or business.

Co founder
Aussie Candle Supplies

How To Recipes

How to make a massage candle

There’s nothing quite like a candle massage to soothe tired and sore muscles, and the beautiful scent they throw is an added bonus.

It’s not uncommon to pay in to the hundreds for a candle massage at beauty and health spas, so we thought why not save the pocket money and enlist a willing significant other and make our own candle to do the trick!

Because of its low melt point, soy wax is most commonly used for massage candle making – and it’s super easy.

Being a natural vegetable wax it is also safer on the skin, which is great news for those with allergies or sensitivities.

Once you’ve got a handle on the basic massage candle, you can experiment with additional ingredients such as shea butter, cocoa butter, and luxurious body oils.

I’ve included this as an option below for those a little more experienced. Try adding jojoba, apricot kernel or avocado oil for beautiful moisturising effects.

*Please test all recipes on yourself before selling to ensure allergy safeness and correct consistency of the massage oil. If you plan to sell your candles, they will also need to be correctly labeled according to Australian standards.


What You’ll Need:

  • 30g GW 464 soy wax (this has the lowest melting point of 46-49°C)
  • 10ml sweet almond oil
  • 2ml skin-safe essential oils or fragrance oils
  • 1 double boiler
  • Suitable container for pouring (e.g. spouted tin, for the purpose of this recipe we are using a 120gm tin)
  • 1 stainless steel stirring spoon
  • Wick (it is not too important what wick you use as you are not burning the candle for long. Start with the wick you would normally use for the container you choose and see how it performs. You don’t need a huge melt pool – just enough for this particular use)
  • Wick holder or household peg

*For a more soft, luxurious candle, substitute one part of the soy wax for shea or cocoa butter. Alternative ingredients as below:

  • 20g GW 464 soy wax
  • 10g shea or cocoa butter
  • 10ml sweet almond oil
  • 2ml skin-safe essential oils or fragrance oils


  1. Place the wax and oil (and butter, if using) in to your double boiler. Melt down, stirring gently with the spoon. Alternatively, you can melt in the microwave – just use short bursts of 30 seconds to prevent burning and overheating. candle-making-double-boiler-small
  2. Once melted, add your fragrance and gently stir until well combined. candle-making-stirring-small
  3. While the wax is cooling, set up your container with the wick and wick holder. candle-making-candle-holder-small
  4. Once the wax has cooled (but still melted), pour in to your container and leave overnight. Once set, trim the wick so that it sits approximately 1cm above your candle. candle-making-pouring-small

Instructions for use:

  1. Light the candle and allow a small melt pool to form – just enough for your use.
  2. Extinguish the flame and allow the melt pool to cool a little so that it is not too hot on the skin.
  3. Pour the desired amount on to your hands or directly on to the skin.
  4. Massage and enjoy!
How To

How to make a palm pillar candle

At Aussie Candles we are dedicated to offering the best products at the best prices, BUT NOT at the expense of any living creature or the environment. We have sourced and partnered with a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil. This organization was founded by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and heads of government and industry involved in palm cultivation. The RSPO was founded to develop and define best practices for sustainable palm cultivation, and then help member organizations to implement and verify the procedures.
We are very proud to offer this product to our customers as a sustainable, non-genetically modified alternative to other waxes.

Palm wax is an all-natural, renewable resource that is obtained from the oil palm in well managed and regulated estates. Due to its environmentally friendly attributes, palm wax offers a whole new choice for candle makers who market sustainable or renewable resource based extensions to their candle lines. The oil palm produces fruit in bunches which are harvested and sent to palm oil mills to undergo extraction, sterilization, clarification and purification. The crude oil is then sent to palm oil refineries where it is processed further into products such as cooking oil, shortening, cocoa butter substitutes, non-dairy creamers, soaps, and of course everybody’s favorite – Palm Wax.

Palm wax is a superb material for making excellent candles. It resists melting in hot summer months, has high contraction (making de-moulding easier), takes colours easily, holds fragrance well, and best of all, can be easily manipulated to produce an infinite array of surface patterns ranging from complex crystalline designs to smooth solid colours . Palm waxes blend well with other waxes to further expand your possibilities.

Using palm wax is very similar to traditional candle making techniques except there are no additives required other than fragrance and coloring.

The crystal formations that can be achieved are greatly influenced by the pouring temperature and rate of cooling. By adjusting these variables slightly, you can create a wonderful array of crystal formations. The ideal pouring temperature is between 92° and 95° c. Going above the temperature will actually decrease the crystal formations to achieve a smooth solid colour. Pouring below these temperatures may make it harder to de-mold or cause deformations. Aluminum moulds work best for producing crystals as well as slowing the rate of cooling.

Palm candles emit fragrance quite nicely. Usually candle makers will use 5-6% fragrance loads to start for a nicely scented candle that does not “sweat”. Some scents may be used at higher levels, but it is up to the candle maker to push the levels on a case-by-case basis. Essential oils also work well, but they must be tested on an individual basis depending on strength and type of oil.

Colouring your palm candles is achieved with most oil soluble dyes. We suggest trying our dye blocks or concentrated liquid dyes. If using blue shades we recommend using dye blocks as blue based liquid shades produce reactive colour results when fragrance is added and the colour tends to shift away from the crystal structure.. Always start light and gradually go deeper with each colour, so you can master how the contrast affects the colour selection between the darker colors and the lighter candles as compared to the crystalline appearance.


  1. For a small round aluminium mould add 330 gms of wax to a double boiler pot on the stove.  candle-making-temperature-small
  2. When the wax has melted to around 98°C shave some colour into the wax and stirt horoughly.   Keep shaving colour from the block until the desired colour is reached.
  3.  When the wax drops to 96°C add your fragrance and again stir thoroughly.   candle-making-dye-block-small
  4. Push the wick pin up through the centre of the mould and add a little blu-tak around the bottom of the pin to create a better seal.   Warm your mould using a heat gun or place it in the oven briefly.  candle-making-candle-holder-small
  5.  Pour your wax into the mould at 95°C.   candle-making-pouring-small
  6. Place a box over the mould to slow down the cooling process.
  7. Once dry and cool turn the mould upside down and gently press on the wick pin until it pops out of the bottom of the mould.   Pull the wick pin slowly out of the mould and your candle should slide straight out.   Push your pre waxed wick up through the ready made hole in the bottom of the candle.   Make sure you place you candle on a suitable heat proof surface before burning.  candle-making-pin-small
  8.  Cure time is recommended at least 24 hours.candle-making-trim-wick-small
  9. When burning the candle should leave a very thin shell that looks gorgeous.  If your shell is too thick then your wick is too small; adversely if a hole develops in the shell your wick is too big.  Like all candle making palm pillars require individual experimentation.  Different brands of palm, different brands of wicks and also fragrances will cause your candles to perform differently


How To Recipes

How to make egg shell tealights


• Sewing needle
• Eggs
• Vinegar
• Food colouring
• Empty egg carton
• Double boiler or two pots
• GW 464
• Dye blocks
• Tealight wicks
• Plastic jug


Step 1

Make a hole in the top of each egg with the needle; enlarge the holes, and pour out the contents. Cut the shells to one-third of the way down and clean the shells with the
vinegar to remove any excess egg.

Step 2

Dye shells with food colouring (follow the directions on the food colouring box). Put the shells inside the empty carton to dry.

Step 3

In a double boiler, melt your wax and and add some dye block shavings if you are using colour.

Step 4

Put an aussie stickum on the bottom of an ACS 1.0 tealight wick and place in the bottom of the shell, pressing carefully to stick but taking care not to break the shell

Step 5

Use the plastic pouring jug which has a long thin neck to fill the shells with wax. Let the wax harden. Trim the wicks to 5mm and place the candles in ceramic eggcups
before lighting.

How To

Instructions for your beginners candle making kit

Welcome to Candle making , have fun.

Your beginners candle making kit contains:
8 x 142gm Apothecary jar
10 x 142gm clear honey pot
1 x Thermometer
18 x cdn 8 wicks
6 x 25ml Fragrances (your choice)
4 x Assorted dye blocks (your choice)
1 x Golden Brands 464 container soy 2kg
18 x Small warning labels
18 x Aussie Stickums
5 x wick holders

The above items plus some basic kitchen scales and a pot to melt your wax in are all you need to get started.

Take the jars from the box and place them on a table that you will be able to work from comfortably and spillages will not damage the surface of the table.

The first item you will require is 1 of the jars , 1 wick , 1 Aussie Stickum and 1 of the wick holders . Peel one Aussie Stickum from the sheet and attach it to the wick tab on
the bottom of the wick , peel the piece of paper off the other side of the stickum.

Carefully place the tabbed end of the wick with the stickum attached into the jar, making sure it is in the centre of the jar. Press down firmly.

Now take the wick holder and poke the secured wick up through centre hole of the wick holder and slide it into the small end groove of the centre hole so that it forms a
tight fit. This will stop the wick moving around when you pour the candle. Try to secure the wick as near to the middle of the jar as possible , it might take a few goes
but you will be an expert in no time.

Now take 120grams of the soy wax (the amount we suggest your size glassware holds on the website) and place it into a suitable pot for melting. This will make 1 candle.
Ideally you need a small pot that will sit in a larger pot of water to melt like a double boiler. Our aluminium pouring pots are perfect for this.

Once the wax has started to melt, add some shavings of your chosen dye block colour. The more you shave in the darker your colour will be. Put a small amount in
at first and wait for the wax to melt completely.

Once the wax has melted completely you can add your thermometer to the side of the pot ( there’s a clip on the side of the thermometer ) You are looking to heat the wax up
to 80 degrees Celsius . When the wax has completely melted and your dye block chip has also melted, you can test the colour by placing a few drops of the melted wax on
top of one another on a white surface and wait for them to dry. This will give you an indication of the shade of colour your finished candle will have. If you want more
colour, add some more shavings and stir so they melt quicker.

If your wax has reached 80 degrees by this point turn the water off and measure out 8-9ml of fragrance, this will give you a fragrance load of around 7%. Add the
fragrance and stir in gently and your done.

All you need to do now is wait for the wax to drop to between 65-70 degrees C and pour the candle. Pour gently into the jar trying not to get the melted wax on the wick
holder , however it really doesn’t matter too much. With practice it will become so easy. Lucky for you, you have 17 more candles to practice on and 1 candle hand made
in your own home already curing. Let your candle cure for 24 hours before burning.

Have fun.